Cutting to the chase, the Angkor ruins near Siem Reap are ASTOUNDING! Really, truly, honestly staggering. I hesitate to post pictures because I'd have to post a thousand just to give you a taste. Here are a couple, which you can think of as a faint whiff from afar.
The pestering vendors inundated most of the ruins, sending their adorable children after us. At first it was hard to say no, but we got into the swing of it. I am now an expert at saying "no, thank you" in Khmer (sounds like "tay, ah-koon"). Of course, they all speak english, and some of them even pretend not to speak Khmer. One little girl said "What does 'tay' mean? I am not Cambodian.... I am a tiger! Raar!" and then giggled.
The Cambodian people have proven to be very friendly, and very determined to rise from the ashes of the last thirty years or so of terror and hardship. In two days Cambodia is having a major election. I know very little about the politics here, but understand that Cambodia has much to gain from ousting the existing party in favor of one that will act on its words.
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